Did you know that a water heater could blast through a house like a powerful missile? Be sure your water heater’s T&P relief valve works! Show
In This Article: How to Test a Water Heater T&P Relief Valve Steam, if allowed to build in pressure, is an incredibly powerful force. In the video below, Jamie and Adam of the popular television show, MythBusters, show just what can happen when the heat—and resulting pressure—inside a water heater surpasses the water heater’s rated limit. When they crank-up the heat and pressure, the water heater blasts through the upper floor and roof of a demonstration house and soars hundreds of feet into the sky, leaving behind a demonstration house that’s been blown to smithereens. Note: This post may contain affiliate links. This means that at no cost to you, we may receive a small commission for made purchases.It acts as an overflow for the tank, and serves a very important purpose if the thermostat malfunctions. If the pressure relief valve is leaking for no reason, it can prevent the water from heating sufficiently. Here’s how to test and replace a pressure relief valve. Testing the Pressure Relief Valve If the valve passes this initial test, lift the test lever on top of it. This opens the TPR and should allow water to flow. The overflow line should begin to heat up immediately, and you will hear the sound of water passing through it. If the valve does not lift upwards with slight pressure, or it lifts but there is no corresponding heat or running water, then the TPR is faulty. This test should be performed before regular maintenance, or at least once a year. Prepare the Water Heater for RepairsBefore doing any work on a water heater, you should always turn off the circuit breaker or set the gas control valve to the PILOT setting. Leaving the power or gas on when the tank has been partially drained can cause serious damages or injuries. Turn off the cold water inlet valve. Turn on the hot water faucet closest to the tank and allow the pressure in the tank to drain. Models with a TPR located on the side need to be drained until the water level in the tank is below the valve. A good rule of thumb is to connect a garden hose to the drain outlet and fully drain and clean your water heater while you have it shut down. Remove the Pressure Relief ValveYou will have to disconnect the overflow line leading away from the TPR valve. This usually means cutting the pipe, but some units will have a special coupling installed to allow easy disconnection. Be prepared to have a temporary leaking pipe when it is cut and clean up the water with a rag or sponge. Unscrew the overflow pipe from the TPR valve using a large adjustable wrench. There are several styles of TPR valve available, including universal pressure relief valves. It’s important to choose a replacement valve with the same BTU rating and pipe size. Take the old valve to the hardware store, and buy a replacement valve that matches it. Replace the TPR ValveWrap the threads of the new TPR valve with plumber’s tape or apply joint compound liberally. Screw the valve into the tank until it is hand tight and then use a wrench to tighten it until the outlet is facing towards the overflow drain pipe. For metal pipes, there are compression couplings available to join to straight edges, or you can convert from metal to CPVC. Related: Differences Between CPVC and PVC Turn off the hot water faucet you opened earlier. Turn on the cold water inlet valve and allow the tank to fill. Make sure that there are no leaks. Reopen the hot water faucet and allow it to run until all of the air has escaped from the tank and line. Restore power, or set the gas control valve to the normal operation setting. Set the thermostat to the desired temperature. Allow the water to heat for one hour and then repeat the TPR valve test. Bob Formisano is a licensed architect and builder with nearly 40 years of experience building new homes and restoring older homes. One of his specialties is repairing old systems dating back to the 1920s, including galvanized water pipes, knob-and-tube wiring, and more. His home repair articles for The Spruce span more than 10 years. Learn more about The Spruce's Editorial Process Updated on 07/24/22 Reviewed by Richard Epstein Reviewed by Richard Epstein Richard Epstein is a licensed master plumber with over 40 years experience in residential and commercial plumbing. He specializes in estimating as well as design and engineering for plumbing systems, and he works for one of New York's largest union plumbing construction companies. Learn more about The Spruce's Review Board Fact checked by Jessica Wrubel Fact checked by Jessica Wrubel Jessica Wrubel has an accomplished background as a writer and copy editor, working for various publications, newspapers and in public libraries assisting with reference, research and special projects. In addition to her journalism experience, she has been educating on health and wellness topics for over 15 years in and outside of the classroom. Learn more about The Spruce's Editorial Process The Spruce / Kevin Norris Project Overview
Because professional installation often adds $500 or more to the cost of replacing a standard tank-style water heater, many homeowners naturally look to the possibility of installing it themselves. And while it is regarded as an advanced project, DIYers with good experience can often do the work themselves with a little planning. It's important to note that this is not a project for beginners. The first step to learning how to install a new water heater is to examine the type of heater you already have. First determine the fuel source: gas or electric? Then, determine the size: 30-, 40-, 50-gallon, or larger? When replacing a water heater, it's easiest to keep the same fuel type and roughly the same tank size. However, if your old water heater did not provide enough hot water, you can consider going with a larger unit—changing from a 40-gallon to a 50-gallon unit, for example, though there must be enough space for the larger heater, the flue size must be correct with proper pitch, and the supplied gas line must be adequate to the heater size. (Any changes to gas lines should only be done by a licensed professional.) In the best-case scenario, replacement is a matter of a few hours of work disconnecting and removing the old heater, then moving the new one into place and restoring the connections in exactly the same fashion. There is a reason, though, why plumbers bid on the job on the basis of a full day of work: it often becomes more complicated. Replacing a water heater will require you to make both plumbing connections as well as wiring or gas hookups, plus a vent connection if you have a gas heater. If you're not confident in your skills in these areas, calling a pro is the best approach. Always follow local ordinances when it comes to working with gas lines. Gas Water Heater VentingFor many years, the standard means of venting combustion exhaust gases for a gas-burning water heater was with atmospheric venting. In this system, a metal draft hood at the top of the water heater channeled both exhaust gases and a small amount of fresh air from the room up a metal flue through the roof or to a common chimney. In many cases, installing a new water heater will be a matter of connecting the existing flue and draft hood to the new heater, though there are factors (such as pitch and draft of the connections) that make the process much more complicated than it seems. When done incorrectly, exhaust gases (including carbon monoxide) can remain inside the home, which is why this project is best left to professionals. But the building code in some communities may require changing to a different means of venting whenever a new water heater is installed. Many areas now require a system known as direct venting, in which a special double-chambered vent pipe carries the exhaust gases out the side of the house at the same time fresh air is allowed in. This is often required in modern air-tight homes, to prevent the gas and airflow through the water heater flue from creating an air pressure difference, which can draw gases from the water heater burner into the home. Depending on how far the direct vent needs to run, code might also require a power fan that assists the flow of exhaust gas in the vent. In older, less air-tight homes, this is rarely a problem. If your code requires that you change from a simple atmospheric vent to a direct vent or powered direct vent, this is a more complicated job. Most people should call a pro for this work. WarningAll plumbing installations must conform to the local plumbing code, so consult the local building department for requirements in your area. Because installation varies by location and by the type of heater, the following steps merely show the general process and may or may not apply to your situation. As stated above, this project is best left to professionals. Featured Video
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InstructionsThe Spruce / Kevin Norris
Article Sources The Spruce uses only high-quality sources, including peer-reviewed studies, to support the facts within our articles. Read our editorial process to learn more about how we fact-check and keep our content accurate, reliable, and trustworthy. Can you change pressure relief valve on water heater?The water heater pressure is already installed when you receive your water heater (or buy a home that has one already). It's actually welded onto the tank; you'll see a threaded inlet where it is. You can't replace or remove it. The valve itself has been screwed into the threaded inlet.
What to do if pressure relief valve is leaking?Leaking Relief Valve. Turn off the water heater breaker.. Shut off your water.. Empty the water heater by draining the bottom and water inside your home.. Remove the TPR valve and discharge tube by unscrewing with a wrench.. Replace with a new TPR valve and discharge tube.. When should you replace pressure relief valve on water heater?Repair every three to five years.
How do you know if your pressure relief valve is faulty?3 Signs Of Pressure Relief Valve Failure. System Cannot Reach Pressure. If your system isn't reaching pressure, this could be a sign of pressure relief valve failure. ... . System is Over Maximum Pressure. ... . Pressure Relief Valve is Leaking or Has No Pressure.. |
Changing a pressure relief valve on a water heater
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